Thursday, 6 August 2026

My transition from 2010s sweet lolita to old school sweet lolita

When I was very new to lolita, my eyes were regrettably staring at those modern day lace monsters that are still very popular today. My first ever purchase was THAT sugar girl JSK set with the bonnet, then I got that one princess sleeve blouse with some lace up white OTKs and a pair of pink heels with lace borders (that ended up being too big). I never actually wore out the dress, when I first laid my hands on it I immediately noticed the bad quality and quickly complained to 42lolita’s customer service…which lead to absolutely nothing. I sold the dress on vinted and quickly learned to look for quality pieces somewhere else

Like many people, I was a big fan of Angelic Pretty’s iconic sweet era, especially as a newbie this was all very new and exciting for me. I’d spend countless hours just looking and magazine scans and any posts online reminiscing of OTT sweet with lots of colors, accessories and details. Unfortunately those AP and BABY dresses were too expensive (and sometimes not the right fit) for me, so I turned to Taobao and started buying secondhand on Xianyu as well

I was (and still am) very fond of Taobao, I discovered this brand N.N.Star to whom I made a lot of deposits for various items. I really liked the sweet designs and also the store owner, a very hard working woman who draws all the prints and designs the pieces herself, she also personally oversees the garments productions. I wanted to support her with all I had! Today her style no longer aligns with what I have today but I still keep recommending her sometimes!

Trying to trace back on when this shift in my journey happened, I’d say around late 2025. 'Old school lolita' had always been at the back of my mind, like when I began making those “old school” lolita videos with my digicam and any lolitas on xiaohongshu are very fond of old school, their videos and  posts trying to replicate that vibe really inspired and stuck with me

I believe I truly started becoming infatuated with it when I started reading more and more about lolita fashion's history from 90s-00s. I was reading A LOT about lolita fashion in general, academic papers (from simply about the clothes, to the depths of kawaii culture), blogs, forums...and I can't not mention the influence Novala Takemoto had in my life. It completely changed my whole perspective on old school lolita and from there, every day I learned to adore more and more these simpler coords, where you can really tell people wore lolita as fun daily clothes using what they had (ie. No pressure in trying to look “polished”) and especially as a lifestyler old school was the look and comfort I want to achieve. I believe that a subculture should have guidelines in order for a style to remain recognizable but for old school the lines are very bendable and it’s a lot of fun!

I also deeply appreciate the love me and the people from 20 years ago (or more!) share with these garments. Holding in my hands my main pieces from 2005, 2002... I wonder how the previous owner must’ve felt when they put on them on, the amount of love and care it must’ve gone through in order to end up in my hands today. I vow to take care of these clothes with all the love in the world until it’s my turn to pass them down to someone else one day

I can’t lie I’m extremely sensitive of the way some people speak about old school lolita. I get so irritated when someone gets their facts wrong and I try to correct them as nicely as possible of course but unfortunately the misinformation spreads faster. I don’t like it when people treat old school like a substyle instead of a tag you put in front of something (same for shiro, kuro, casual, OTT…) For example you can have an old school gothic coord or old school [brand name]. When I say stuff like “I love old school lolita” I am aware of this fact of course, it is at the back of my mind and I assume most of my lolita friends understand it too but unfortunately many out there don’t know about this…

It really helps define a specific style in more detail. It doesn’t help that 42lolita has “old school” listed separate as its own style alongside sweet, classic, gothic. When you click it it’s a mix of all 3 substyles that barely even gives a hint of an old school vibe. I think 42lolita only fucks things up and actively creates more confusion for those who already don’t even do any basic research of lolita fashion. Those same people will comment on you for not wearing a petticoat..Okay..!

Today I only have eyes for old school sweet, every feeling I described has multiplied by 10. It’s hard to describe what I feel when I look at these old street snaps, I honestly tear up sometimes because of how overwhelmingly happy I get. I love the simplicity and passion from that time and to try to get closer to that feeling, I started taking most of my lolita pictures with my digicam, I later started this blog and also posting my pictures on Flickr! It's I seriously full of hidden gems when it comes to old Jingu Bashi pictures (I wish things like this still happened today! I wonder how we can build back up this kind of culture…) It also really eases my mind to be able to disconnect a bit and revert to simpler things like this

I’m going to continue seeking inspiration from these old street snaps and strive to grow my authentic old school collection! I barely even care about new releases, I might take a peek at BABY’s classical series, but when it comes to mainpieces I’d always rather buy the older release from the 2000s 

Thanks for reading my love letter for old school lolita ^_^


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